If this is not a setting issue you are low on refrigerant gas and have a leak in the system. When the gas is low the system will direct whatever cooling is available to the driver's side. i.e. passenger side will blow warm/feel less cool than the driver side for the same temperature setting. If everything is working correct with the temperature
Hello and welcome. That cooling fan has a control box on the fan it self. If it is setting a cooling fan activation fault most likely the fan/control box must be replaced. The reason activating the fan with a jumper doesn't work is because you are still going through the control box mounted on the fan after the connector.
JimLev. 7537 posts · Joined 2003. #2 · Oct 3, 2011. Yes that is the power connector for the fan. There are 2 different Aux fans and speed control circuits. The older cars that use a throttle cable have a temp switch on the side of the radiator that controls power to a 3 speed fan. Relays and resistors are used for the different speeds.
The way to check is to turn on the car, and turn on the air. If the clutch isn't turning, whack the a/c clutch with a screwdriver handle, or lightly with a hammer. If it starts to work, boom, there's your problem. It is available as a separate part from Ford, not sure if BMW sells the clutch separately, however.

A technician will diagnose your BMW 328i heater using the symptoms you report as a starting point. Because your BMW 328i heater is a complex mechanism that uses an electric fan to blow air through a heater core that is heated by the engine coolant, the problem could be electrical, mechanical, coolant-related, or a combination of these systems.

Problem with E90 Air Condition. 3 months ago i had to unplug the A/C in my E90 (2008-316i) to do some repairs. Since re-install the A/C was not working well as before & giving normal/very slightly cool air; so i went to check & i found that the amount of R134a freon gas was not charged correctly it was about 350 grams only instead of 590 gm
2000 BMW 323i 47,000 mi, fr5401. AC fan worked intermittenly, sometimes would come on at reduced speed & sometimes won't come on at all. 1999 BMW 323i 110,000 mi, Clos67. It started out A/C would blow air till I come to a stop. When I was at a light or in traffic air would get real weak,did that for 2yrs. Then the air would go out and come on Whole story: 2005 BMW X5 e53 3.0i after a drive sometimes trigger the aux fan front of the radiator to turn on w/o ignition key till the battery is drained. In my desire to localize, I pull up Fuse F14 5A Multifunction control module 1 but it triggers a continuous sound and stop when I plug the fuse back. New fan lists for $330, takes about an hour (if you have the right tools) to install. To test the fan itself, you'll need a source of 12VDC (I use a motorcycle battery). The connector for it is on the upper left side of the housing. Disconnect it. You'll find a bunch of female pins on the connector going to the motor. So, before spending $750, I want to take opinion from you all BMW experts here, if anybody has similar experience and it turned out to be not bad control unit and something minor and inexpensive fix. I am sure that Indy show did not test the control unit (because he might not have all BMW testing tool) and just guessing it. For whatever reason, after a while the AC just stops blowing out cold air. In addition, none of the car's diagnostics pick it up. Per BMW, they are currently testing the A/C Evaporator, as well as the wiring between the temperature sensor for the evaporator and the control unit in the car.
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    • bmw ac fan not working